Mazar e Sharif
I just got back from a little trip to Mazar e Sharif, which is way up north near Tajikistan. We left at 4 am from Kabul airport on this ancient Anatov cargo plane. It's only about an hour's flight, but you fly over a spur of the Hindu Kush, and the mountains are incredible. The plane was actually flying around the sides of mountains, so that we were looking up at peaks from the windows. Mazar e Sharif is home to a famous blue Mosque, which is located in the exact center of the city. It is one of two or three buildings in the city which are more than one storey tall. There was some intense fighting there during the latest installment of the Afghan civil war, but most of the damage has been repaired. The roads are horrible, particularly inside the city. There was a huge market where day-laborers gathered in the morning to find work. I guess this sight had a comforting familiarity to it, being something one might see in many towns in the states. When I got back to Kabul, after a brief stop in Konduz, I felt a remarkable sensation of being home. I had not expected it, but in the last month I've become accustomed to this place, and I missed Kabul even though I'd only left for a day. Kabul is a beautiful city, if you can look past the dirt and the signs of past wars and present occupation.